O interesse humano pela natureza das cores vem de muito longe. Para muitos pode parecer pseudociência, mas o fato é que as cores são um assunto intrigante e bastante discutido. Da filosofia a ciência, desde a Grécia clássica até os dias atuais.
“É da mistura do fogo que entra em nós e sai de nossos olhos que nascem as cores.” Platão (427 – 347 A.C.)
A Teoria das Cores
A teoria das cores são estudos e experimentos relacionados com a associação entre a luz e natureza das cores. Leonardo da Vinci, Isaac Newton e Goethe foram alguns dos estudiosos que buscaram compreender esse processo.
A teoria mais antiga que se tem notícia é a do filósofo grego Aristoteles; ele concluiu que as cores eram propriedades dos objetos. Depois, durante a renascença, Leonardo da Vinci se opôs ao pensamento de Aristoteles. Para ele, a cor era propriedade da luz, e não dos objetos.
Quase duzentos anos depois, em 1672, Isaac Newton estudou a influência do sol na formação das cores, focando no fenômeno da dispersão. Em seus experimentos, Newton mostrou que, se a luz branca incidisse sobre um prisma de vidro totalmente polido, ela se dispersava em feixes coloridos. Esse efeito já era conhecido na época, mas até então acreditava-se que era causado por impurezas do vidro. Ele batizou esse conjunto de cores de espectro, mas você pode chamar de arco íris (!).
Atualmente, a maior estudiosa sobre as cores é Eva Heller, psicóloga, socióloga e professora de comunicação. No seu livro A psicologia das cores, ela aborda a relação das cores com nossos sentimentos, através de um estudo de pesquisa e observação de muitos anos, cujos os resultados coincidiram como outros estudos recentes.
Todas as cores possuem um significado, e a mesma cor pode ter um efeito completamente diferente se combinada com outras cores. Isso porque o efeito que cada uma provoca se deve ao contexto que ela se encontra.
Como “sentimos” a cor tem muito a ver com os nossos gostos e experienciais pessoais, com a nossa educação, cultura e crenças. Você sabia que o azul é a cor preferida entre todas as cores e também é considerada a cor da simpatia e da harmonia?
“O mundo das cores é minha obsessão diária, minha alegria e meu tormento.” Claude Monet (1840 – 1926)
Conceitos Básicos
O sistema de cores é definido em quatro grupos: primárias, secundárias, terciárias e neutras.
As cores primárias não podem ser criadas a partir de outras cores. São elas: vermelho (magenta), azul (ciano) e amarelo.
As cores secundárias são formadas pela mistura de duas cores primárias, em proporções iguais. São elas: violeta, laranja e verde.
As cores terciárias são formadas pela combinação das cores primarias com as secundárias. Exemplos: vermelho + laranja = vermelho alaranjado / Azul + verde = azul esverdeado
Branco e Preto: Cor ou Não?
Sempre designamos o branco e o preto como cores, mas será que isso está certo? Se estivermos falando das cores da luz, a resposta é não. No sentindo da física, na teoria da óptica, o branco é a soma de todas as cores da luz. Já a cor preta é a ausência total de luz.
Imagine a luz do sol: quando ele incide em um objeto branco, este reflete os raios solares, enquanto um objeto preto absorve todos os raios solares. Portanto, o branco e o preto não são cores, mas características da luz.
Harmonia das Cores
A harmonia das cores estuda os tipos de composições para compreender quais as combinações de cores podem ser mais adequadas ou atrativas para os seus determinados usos. Ela é feita através do círculo cromático. Como o nome diz, é um circulo em formato de pizza dividido em 12 cores, onde podemos formar quatro tipos de harmonias: harmonia monocromática, harmonia análoga, harmonia complementar e harmonia tríade.
Se você é inscrito na newsletter, recebeu a cartinha do mês e já sabe disso. Nela eu expliquei detalhadamente como combinar as cores.
Vejo Cores em Você
Acho que você já ouvir falar em Análise de Coloração Pessoal (ou análise cromática, como alguns preferem). Esse é um tema que está bastante em voga no universo da Consultoria de Imagem e Estilo. Bem, a análise de coloração pessoal tem como objetivo selecionar as cores que mais valorizam, complementam ou harmonizam com você. É realizada por um profissional especializado, através de técnicas específicas, materiais adequados e luz correta. Existem alguns métodos para essa análise e todos tem como objetivo selecionar as cores que mais harmonizam com a pele de cada pessoa.
Eu utilizo o método sazonal expandido. Oi? Calma, vou explicar direitinho!
Essa teoria tem origem no artista e professor Johannes Itten, que percebeu que frequentemente as pessoas tinham preferência por cores que complementavam sua coloração pessoal. Em 1940, Suzanne Caygil desenvolveu um sistema visual para determinar as melhores cores para um indivíduo de acordo com sua cor de pele, olhos e cabelos. Esse grupo de cores foi nomeado pelas estações sazonais (primavera, verão, outono e inverno), onde cores de primavera e outono são quentes, e as cores de inverno e verão são frias.
Quanto mais amarelo na mistura, mais quente é a cor. Quanto mais azul, mais frio.
Faz sentido, uma vez que a principal característica considerada era a temperatura da pele. Mas existem pessoas que não se encaixam nas quatros estações, pois não tem a pele nem fria, nem quente. A partir dai, e depois de muitos estudos, surgiu o método sazonal expandido. Este novo sistema de análise de cores considera os tons neutros da pele e as três dimensões da cor: profundidade (claro x escuro), intensidade (suave x intenso) e temperatura (quente x frio).
Agora temos 12 estações e não apenas quatro do método anterior. Continuamos nomeando-as de acordo com as estações sazonais (ah, simpático, vai!?), mas foram adicionado grupos entre as quatro.
São quatro estações puras, com predominância de característica quente ou fria, e oito estações com característica neutra e predominância variada de profundidade e intensidade.
No início pode parecer confuso, mas é mais simples do que você imagina.
A premissa é de que as cores certas vão iluminar o rosto, deixar a pele com textura suavizada, atenuar manchas, rugas, olheiras e proporcionar uma aparência mais descansada.
Colorir para Libertar
Algumas pessoas tem receio de fazer a Análise Cromática pois acreditam que esse processo vão limita-las, isso não é verdade. Pelo menos não na minha prática profissional.
Veja bem, cada cartela é composta por pelo menos 50 cores, as que eu uso e forneço para as minhas clientes são da Dresscode e são compostas por 70 cores! Acho pouco provável que você não goste de ao menos uma dezena delas. Todas tem a versão de alguma das cores, não existe um único tom de vermelho, por exemplo. Existe o vermelho mais quente que se aproxima do laranja, e o vermelho com mais azul na sua composição que vai se aproximar mais do pink ou violeta.
Talvez, o problema maior esteja no seu amor incondicional pelo branco ou preto De fato, eles estão em apenas 4 das 12 cartelas. Mas, acredite, existem mais cores neutras (e eu diria universais). Prometo contar tudo num próximo post. Aguarde!
Outra coisa importante de dizer: a “preocupação” da análise cromática é com a influência das cores no rosto! Da cintura para baixo não precisa abrir mão de nada.
Na Consultoria de Imagem e Estilo, eu busco a harmonização das cores de acordo com as características do cliente, sempre considerando a mensagem psicológica que as cores transmitem e se elas estão de acordo com o seu desejo de imagem.
Se você já fez a sua análise cromática, me conte a sua experiência. Se ainda não fez, entre em contato.
Quer reunir as amigas e amigos para fazer? Tudo bem! Grupos com no máximo quatro pessoas tem descontos especiais.
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