Este é o último post desta série sobre acessórios e para encerrar em grande estilo, eles, que são considerados verdadeiras assinaturas de estilo: os óculos de sol!
Assim como outros acessórios, a escolha de um óculos depende muito da personalidade. Mas não podemos esquecer que os óculos de sol são responsáveis por proteger nossos olhos. Por isso, é fundamental considerar a qualidade deles.
Quanto mais próximos da linha do equador se está, maior a irradiação de raios solares. E como você bem sabe, a localização do Brasil é privilegiada. Porém, os óculos não devem ser usados só durante a exposição ao sol, pois a claridade excessiva também pode ser prejudicial.
Recomendações reforçadas, vamos ao demais aspectos desse item indispensável seja em dia de sol ou não.
De acordo com o formato do rosto
Conhecer o formato do rosto, entre outras vantagens, nos ajuda na escolha dos óculos. São nove formatos (oval, redondo, quadrado, longo, retângulo, triângulo, triângulo invertido, coração e diamante) e grande parte das pessoas se encaixa entre eles. E, claro, algumas pessoas podem misturar características de dois ou mais formatos.
Existe toda uma técnica para determinar o formato de rosto. Essa análise faz parte do processo de Consultoria de Imagem e Estilo, e além do formato do rosto, são consideradas outras característica da face, como tamanho dos olhos, nariz e os traços.
Na escolha dos óculos podemos optar por harmonizar ou contrastar. Se é sua primeira vez por aqui, leia o primeiro post da série, nele eu explico tudo: harmonia, contraste, elementos de design, escala e cores.
Na sequência eu vou falo sobre como equilibrar as proporções do rosto com os óculos.
Rosto Oval
O rosto oval tem comprimento igual a largura, com maxilar mais estreitos que as têmporas. A linha do cabelo é, geralmente, arredondada.
O formato de rosto oval é bastante versátil e se ajusta com todos os tipos de óculos. Se esse é o seu caso, não se limite. Pode ir do clássico ao super criativo, atenção apenas para o tamanho do óculos versus tamanho do rosto.
Ah, mais um detalhe: independente do modelo, é sempre melhor que as armações sigam a linha da sobrancelha.
Rosto Redondo
O rosto redondo tem ângulos pouco definidos, a largura é igual ao comprimento ou com pequenas variações. O queixo e a linha do cabelo são arrendados.
Os modelos angulares com cantos levemente arredondados e de tamanho médio são os que trazem maior equilíbrio. Os óculos lineares também ajudam a alongar o rosto. Evite os modelos redondos e muito pequenos, isso porque esse modelos acentuam os traços e criam a ilusão de rosto mais cheio.
Rosto Quadrado
O rosto quadrado tem, mais ou menos, testa, maxilar e maçãs do rosto na mesma largura. Normalmente, a testa é retangular e o maxilar é bem acentuado.
Os modelos de óculos que mais valorizam esses traços são os de linhas superiores angulares e inferiores arredondadas, como o aviador, por exemplo, que promove o equilíbrio com o formato do queixo.
Rosto Longo e Rosto Retangular
São mais longos que largos (!). O rosto retangular tem quase que a mesma largura da testa e maxilar, sendo esse dois mais quadrados. Já o rosto longo tem o maxilar mais estreito e linhas mais arredondadas.
Os modelos retangulares criam a ilusão de uma linha horizontal, diminuindo o comprimento do rosto. As lentes espelhadas ajudam a trazer volume, as extremidades alongadas do modelo gatinho é excelente e as hastes em cores contrastantes e/ou com detalhes podem fazer esse mesmo efeito, de maneira mais sutil.
Rosto Triângulo Invertido e Rosto Coração
Possuem testa larga, maxilar estreito e maçãs do rosto mais altas. No formato coração o queixo é mais delicado, enquanto que no formato triângulo invertido é mais angular.
A armação deve ter a mesma largura ou ser um pouco mais estreita que a testa, se a parte inferior apontar para fora, melhor ainda. Como estamos falando de equilíbrio, é melhor evitar os formatos super grandes.
Rosto Triângulo
O rosto triangular tem testa estreita e maxilar largo. As melhores armações são as que levam a atenção para cima das maçãs do rosto e não acrescentam volume na parte inferior. Mais uma vez o gatinho é super recomendado, se ele tiver algum detalhe que traga mais leveza, como por exemplo transparência na parte inferior ou lentes degradê, é perfeito, ou quase, já que perfeição não existe!
Rosto Diamante
Com maçãs do rosto proeminentes, testa e maxilar estreitos, o rosto diamante fica equilibrado com armações mais largas acima da bochecha. Evite os extremos (muito grande, muito geométrico, muito anguloso, muito arredondado) e as hastes rebuscadas.
Clássicos, modernos, exóticos
Quem me conhece sabe que eu AMO óculos. Tenho uma pequena coleção que continua a crescer. Nela, carrego algumas relíquias, pequenos xodós e várias polêmicas. Então, se a capacidade técnica dessa Consultora de Imagem e Estilo não foi suficiente para você até aqui, acredite na palavra da #loucadosóculos.
Aviador
Um clássico com forte personalidade. Criado em 1936 com a função de proteger os olhos dos aviadores da força aérea americana, o modelo ganhou as ruas na década de 1950 e se popularizou entre os anos 60 e 70, com o modelo da Ray-Ban.
O modelo original contava com hastes finas e metálicas e lentes esverdeadas. Atualmente existem muitas variações, com lentes espelhadas, degradê e hastes em diferentes espessuras. Diversas marcas tem o seu modelo aviador; o que eu mais gosto nesse modelo é que ele acompanha um vestido leve de verão com o mesmo vigor que completa o look effortless.
Gatinho
Outro clássico, ícone dos anos 50, o modelo que remete aos olhos de gato, era o preferido de Marilyn Monroe e das adeptas do estilo pin-up.
Esse modelo de alma retrô voltou super moderno em coleções como da Vogue com Gigi Hadid e nas passarelas da Moschino. Se você gosta desse tipo de óculos, a Genie Vintage tem modelos lindos por preços ótimos.
Jackie O.
Batizado assim em homenagem Jacqueline Onassis, o modelo com lentes enormes foi e continua sendo muito elegante. O formato arredondado foi sucesso nos anos 60 e desde então apresentou diversas releituras, mas sempre mantendo o tamanho avantajado das lentes.
Wayfarer
Esse modelo foi o segundo sucesso da Ray-Ban, numa época onde a maioria dos óculos era feita de metal, o wayfarer foi feito de acetato. Fez sucesso no cinema, com o rebelde James Dean. Mas acho que a sua lembrança dele vem com Audrey Hepburn em “Bonequinha de Luxo”. Ele foi relançado nos anos de 1980 e 2000, esse último com número de vendas estrondoso no mundo.
Oclinhos
Polêmico. Há quem odeie a estética dos mini óculos. Eu me questiono se lentes tão pequenas são realmente eficazes para a proteção dos olhos. Por isso, eu prefiro e sugiro escolher com cautela esses modelos. Durante a pesquisa de imagem para o post, notei que muitas celebridades usam esse modelo minúsculo durante a noite e em lugares fechados. Neste caso, tudo bem não ter nenhuma outra função além de causar no look.
Oclões
No outro extremo, temos os super óculos. Grandes, robustos, imponentes e nada discretos. Nessa categoria, eu diria, que o mais fácil de agradar é o modelo quadrado, também chamado de square glass. Mas tem tipo máscara, os arredondados, os geométricos e os exóticos, claro!
Cores e medidas
A cor da armação e das lentes dos óculos é outro fator super importante nessa escolha, afinal, nosso rosto compõe 70% da nossa imagem pessoal e do senso de identidade.
Eu sou suspeita para falar, mas desconheço maneira mais efetiva para descobrir quais cores te favorecem mais do que a análise de coloração pessoal. É um serviço que vale o investimento.
Uma última dica para quem vai comprar óculos on line: dentro das hastes tem alguns dígitos, que se refere às medidas dos óculos. O primeiro dígito é da largura da lente, o segundo é da largura da ponte (nariz) e o terceiro é o comprimento da haste.
Tenho a sensação que este foi o artigo mais longo da série, espero que você tenha gostado da longa leitura e que a tarefa de escolher óculos seja mais fácil a partir de agora.
Depois de brincos, colares, pulseiras, anéis, broches e óculos eu encerro com a maravilhosa rainha dos acessórios, no auge dos seus 98 anos, Iris Apfel, que segue a lição dada por sua mãe durante a Grande Depressão:
“Me ensinou que de um vestido preto se faz 15 roupas diferentes, se souber usar os acessórios.”
Um beijo e até a próxima.
Demais posts dessa série:
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assim como você abordou o item Broches, poderia abordar, também, o uso de flores. Muito obrigada.