Brincos, colares, anéis, pulseiras, broches, lenços, tiaras, chapéus, óculos escuros, são tantas as opções que fica difícil escolher uma categoria de acessórios preferida.
Os acessórios são itens indispensáveis para muita gente. Sozinho ou acompanhado, ele é capaz de elevar o look básico a outro nível. Assim como as roupas, os acessórios revelam muito da nossa personalidade. É possível criar uma assinatura de estilo através deles.
Por tudo isso, um único post não seria suficiente para eu falar de um assunto tão sortido, e este é o primeiro de uma série sobre o fantástico mundo dos acessórios.
Uma breve história
Os acessórios têm um papel importante na história da humanidade, em algumas culturas os adornos representam a tradição e as crenças de um povo. Na pré-história, os acessórios simbolizavam o misticismo, colares feitos de ossos e dentes de animais eram amuletos de proteção. No Egito, era símbolo de poder e de status social. Na idade média, as jóias eram símbolos de divisão de classe e religião, representados por coroas e crucifixos.
Os primeiros artesãos surgiram na época do renascimento, quando as pedras preciosas começaram a ser trabalhadas a mão, os ourives passaram a ser vistos como artistas e as jóias passaram a fazer parte do estilo das pessoas, da burguesia pelo menos.
Um pequeno salto e nasce a alta joalheria com marcas que são sinônimos de luxo e história como Cartier, Bulgari e Tiffany. Coco Chanel foi a estilista responsável pela democratização dos acessórios, criando e usando bijuterias, misturando pérolas, couro e correntes de metal. Ousou a usar grandes braceletes esmaltados, um em cada punho, fazendo as vezes de punho da camisa. Com certeza Chanel desconstruiu valores.
Como parte da moda, os acessórios continuam sendo inspirados em movimentos culturais e sociais, representando uma época e evoluindo com a sociedade. A seguir vou tratá-los apenas como adornos estéticos, ok?
Materiais e seu nível de refinamento
Vou considerar aqui as três categorias de acessórios: jóias, semijóias e bijuterias, e classificá-las por níveis de acordo com o material. Lembrando que o preço também tem relação com o design e não somente com o material e qualidade. Isso explica algumas bijus tão caras!
Nível 1 – jóias: são compostas totalmente por metais nobres, como ouro ou prata, e pedras preciosas. As jóias são quase sempre produzidas de maneira exclusiva, a durabilidade é muito maior e as marcas carregam luxo, arte e história. Faz sentido serem tão caras.
Nível 2 – semijóias: são compostas por metais não nobres, geralmente latão, e levam uma segunda camada intermediária de níquel, bronze, cobre, e banhos, os chamados folheados. As pedras não preciosas podem ser lapidadas ou não, podendo ser de gemas orgânicas, como pérola, coral, turquesa e âmbar.
Nível 3 – bijuterias: são compostas de metais não preciosos, pedras sintéticas e outros materiais como resina, acrílico, madeira, couro, fios, tecidos, palha, plástico e vidro. Algumas levam uma ligeira camada de banho.
É importante ressaltar que o níquel é um metal que pode causar graves irritações na pele, ainda assim, existem muitos fabricantes que utilizam. Portanto, prefira as que são livres de níquel.
H. Stern 
Morana 
Zara
Elementos de design
Os acessórios podem carregar uma carga simbólica maior que da roupa que usamos. Desta forma, identificar os elementos de design e suas mensagens ajuda na nossa escolha.
Os elementos de design é o que chamamos de composição de linhas, formas, cores e texturas. As linhas podem ser retas (horizontais, verticais e diagonais) e curvas, finas ou espessas. As formas podem ser geométricas, circulares, retangulares ou orgânicas.
Dentro desse universo, podemos optar pela harmonia ou o contraste. De maneira bem simples: a harmonia é a combinação de elementos que têm alguma relação, por exemplo: forma, cor e linhas. Já o contraste é oposto, é a diferença entre coisas da mesma natureza. As imagens da galeria abaixo mostram combinações harmônicas de estilos diferentes.
Cores e texturas
Mais uma vez usando a enquete do Instagram como referência, a maioria das pessoas preferem o banho dourado nos metais. Mas preciso dizer que pessoas de pele quente ou neutra quente se beneficiam mais desse tipo de banho.
E como saber se a sua pele é quente, fria ou neutra? Só com a Análise de Coloração Pessoal. Calma, ainda que sua cartela seja de temperatura oposta ao seu banho preferido, ainda é possível diminuir os efeitos negativos com outras estratégias da Consultoria de Imagem e Estilo.
Além dos banhos existem outras diferenças, como o metal polido, escovado e envelhecido. As pedras podem ser opacas e translúcidas, ter a estrutura rígida ou maleável, além de cores diferentes. Todas essas características vão influenciar nas mensagens transmitidas.
Maxi ou minimalista
Quando pensamos em maximalista e minimalista logo associamos com o tamanho das peças, mas se tratando de acessórios, o visual maxi e mini tem a ver com a quantidade de pontos focais.
O acessório pode ser grande e minimalista por conta de suas linhas e design. O maximalista é uma mistura de acessórios com muitos pontos focais.
As imagens vão te ajudar a contextualizar, caso a explicação tenha parecido confusa.
Único ponto focal
Múltiplos pontos focais
Como combinar
É importante levar em conta seu gosto, seu estilo e seu objetivo. A ordem de hierarquia quem determina é você.
Para um visual equilibrado, sugiro harmonia e contraste na medida certa. Se você quer começar a ousar nos elementos, a minha dica é: comece pelo anel. Escolha um importante e vá misturando devagar com outros.
Colares grandes e com muitas voltas ficam melhor por dentro da camisa ou fazendo papel de gola, como Olivia Palermo adora fazer. Colares fininhos usados de uma só vez ficam lindos, apenas tenha cuidado com a altura de cada um deles para não ficar embolado e perder o efeito.
Para as exageradas como eu, é possível usar dois, três ou mais acessórios enormes ao mesmo tempo, sempre respeitando a importância das peças. Para não errar, o ideal é que haja distância entre eles, por exemplo: colar e pulseira, brinco e bracelete ou brinco e pingente longo.
No próximo post da série eu falarei exclusivamente sobre os brincos. Me conta nos comentários o que você quer saber sobre eles.
Um beijo e até a próxima.
Demais posts dessa série:
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Os brincos longos combinam com todas os tipos de golas ?
Beth, com quase todas, as golas altas e o decote V ou canoa são os melhores para os maxis. Mas depende do quão grande e volumosa é a peça. Não perca o próximo post, vou falar disso e muito mais! ?